An Organic Presentation of Covert Farms

It’s hard to believe we haven’t enjoyed a formal winery portfolio tasting for an entire year! We’ve hosted some superb wineries and their owners and winemakers over the past twelve months, but the last time we sat down at De Dutch with a range of whites and reds was to enjoy the wine and cheese of Upper Bench with Gavin and Shana Miller. In the meantime we’ve dined with Meyer Family Vineyards and Le Vieux Pin, hosted parties with Mark Simpson and Robert Van Westen, and of course enjoyed a marvellous Nota Bene vertical, amongst other enjoyable events. Still, it was gratifying to return to our roots and thoughtfully study a single winery’s variety of vino.

Our guest this month was Derek Uhlemann, Sales Manager for Covert Farms Family Estate Winery (and Farm Chef to boot). Covert Farms was our first stop on the 2012 Fall Bus Tour, where Derek was present to welcome us (relatively) early in the morning with ample wine and plentiful platters of farm-fresh fruits and vegetables as well. Those members present will remember the struggles Derek endured trying to find a reliable signal for the wine shop’s lone (cellular-based) point of sales terminal as we clamored for purchases! With the enthusiasm of the BCWAS still in mind Derek was eager to join us in Vancouver this time and show off the growth of Covert Farms since we last met.

Derek Uhlemann re-introduces the BCWAS to the growing number of fine wines from Covert Farms.

The youthful 2015 vintage was first out of the gate with a Sparkling Zinfandel about which Derek was quick to clarify the legitimacy. Rather than being the sickly sweet “White Zin” of old this crisp naturally fermented creation carries the respectable Méthode Ancestrale nomenclature.

​The sparkling provided a good backdrop for Derek’s historical recollection of the more than half-century-old homestead founded by California tomato farmer George Covert. George’s grandson Gene and his wife Shelly now manage 650 organically farmed acres on McIntyre Bluff, including 25 acres of premium grapes and their family’s namesake winery.

Although the 1970s and ‘80s saw Covert fostering nearly two hundred acres of hybrid grapes to yield wines with names such as “White Diamond,” today is a much different story. Gone is the “Okanagan Riesling” in favour of much more exotic (and palatable) white varieties such as Semillon, Viognier, and Roussanne. Thanks to some digging through the cellar by Derek, we had the opportunity to enjoy a four year vertical of the Amicitia White blend following the newest 2014 Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon, a fuller-bodied, mineral and citrus presentation of traditional grassy Sauvignon Blanc.

A small percentage of both Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc is included in the Amicitia but this rare blend is predominantly Rhone whites, with Roussanne unexpectedly leading the way over and above Viognier’s smaller contribution. Although a handful of 2007 and 2009 Amicitia was discovered at the winery, it was terrible in Derek’s honest opinion; but some unlabelled 2008 made it through the years intact. As a result we were able to compare a relatively aged version with the more recent 2012-2014 vintages. Oxidative character was readily apparent in the golden, straw-coloured older wine, with an intensely flavoured, viscous palate present upon tasting. The younger vintages showed Roussanne’s strong influence, presenting stone fruit flavours amongst hints of greenery and even petrol, with a similar generous body.

Before delving into several red samples we took a moment to appreciate the 2014 Rosé, a blend of Merlot, Pinot Noir, and a touch of Syrah. The long finish emphasized the food friendly palate for which Derek reported Covert Farms seeks to strive, with leafy red fruit flavours present.

​More of that same Syrah was found in the 2013 “MDC”, a bold blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, and Syrah. The jammy, rich palate, and peppery cocoa flavours seemed like a superb tribute to Winemaker Gene’s late father, Michael Dunham Covert, a Cabernet aficionado for whom the wine is named.

The Amicitia Red blend further demonstrated the range of grapes grown in just twenty-five acres, this time assembled into a traditional Bordeaux configuration. The 2013 we tasted reflected an increase in Merlot now that the winery produces varietal Cabernet Sauvignon, bringing together a slim majority of Merlot, plus smaller proportions of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. A nicely balanced, fruit forward, and understandably complex medley of juicy fruit was the result; perfect with the selection of Les Amis du Fromage cheeses and charcuterie available on the side.

Platters of cheese and charcuterie from Les Amis du Fromage are becoming a regular fixture of our events - with no complaints!

A triplet of barrel samples awaited us as we concluded our tasting and sought out second helpings of cheese. Derek had brought us everything from the newly bottled 2013 Zinfandel to the fledgling 2015 Merlot, a "Grand Reserve" blockbuster just beginning a long slumber in French oak. The ripe and rich Zinfandel follows up the inaugural 2012 in the stylishly-labelled Grand Reserve series, and should prove very popular upon its September release to the growing waiting list. The parallel series of Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon will follow its first vintage with the elegant 2014 sample we tasted, showing off archetypal black currant and eucalyptus notes.

​One final opportunity to buy raffle tickets offered a chance to bring home some of the evening’s favourites: members Tanya, Bill, and Judy eventually snagged bottles of MDC, Amicitia Red, and an annual Society membership, respectively. The much appreciated volunteer pouring crew was reminded of the work involved in clearing several hundred glasses as we wrapped up, it having been several months since our last tasting of this magnitude. Many thanks to all the BCWAS members who chip in to help make these complex events work smoothly. And our particular thanks to Derek Uhlemann and the team at Covert Farms Estate for sharing the fruits of their labours with us so generously.

BCWAS Member Judy celebrates winning an annual membership alongside Derek and President Brian.